Testing IRCRA Battery and Its Predictive Value on Red-Point Performance in Youth Advanced Climbers

Author(s): Antonia Ioana Vasile and Monica Stanescu

Introduction: Various studies examined the factors that influence climbing performance measuring the contribution of anthropometric factors, physiological factors, physical factors, technical factors, psychological factors and mental factors. IRCRA developed a battery with 10 tests that evaluate key physiological parameters in climbing.

Hypothesis: We can predict climbing red-point performance based on the 5 factors: antropometric factor, upper body factor, flexibility factor, core factor and training factor. Methods: The study was performed on 17 youth advanced climbers both male and female. The evaluating instrument was IRCRA performancerelated test baterry for climbers with 3 more added tests: pull-ups, pushups, hanging, dips and plank.

Results: We composed five factors that influence red-point performance, which are, in order of their importance: training factors, upper body strength factors, anthropometric factors, core strength factor and flexibility factors. The model predicted 81.7% of the climbing performance variance. Power slap at Gullich rungs was the most predicting of the upper body strength.

Conclusions: The most important factor for performance in climbing is a trainable skill: strength of the upper body. Specific training on specific holds is more important than general physical preparation. Anthropometric characteristics influence performance more than core strength or flexibility in climbing.